Manila Transitio 1945: Remembering the day that changed Manila forever

Organized by Celdran Tours, Manila Transitio 1945 is an event commemorating the Battle of Manila fought from February 3 to March 3, 1945 by American, Filipino and Japanese army. After the battle, Manila was regarded as the second most devastated city in the world, second to Warsaw, after the World War II. More than 100,000 Filipinos died in the battle, around 10% of the entire population of Manila, resulting to what is presently known as the Manila Massacre. After the war, Manila had never been the same. 

Sixty seven years after, one man led us all to remembering once again the day that changed Manila forever. 

It's going to be a sunset tour for all us last February 26, 2012 with Mr. Walk This Way, Carlos Celdran. At 4:00pm, we assembled in front of the Fort Santiago ticket booth. Minutes after, the event was started with the singing of the Philippine National Anthem.

And then Carlos started to talk. Armed with a lapel mic and visual materials, he gave us the most insightful and most amusing history class we ever have attended. In this picture, Carlos showed everyone the symbol of Manila during the Spanish Era. A Chimera, a mythological symbol for illusion, is at the center of that symbol.

More than 200 people attended the Manila Transitio 1945 event last February 26, 2012. They're from all walks of life. Most are Filipinos, some are from the US. There's even a Buddhist monk who attended the event. It's a good crowd that day!

When the Spanish came to the Philippines, they built a fortress called the Fort Santiago. An image of Santiago Matamoros or St. James of the Moors was etched at the facade of the fortress. According to the legend, St. James appeared as a warrior on his white horse to help the Christian army of King Ramiro I of Spain against the Moors. Until today, St. James is the patron saint of Spain.

Before the Spanish Era, the Pre-Hispanic Filipinos were Moslems. 

Contrary to what the Spanish did to the Filipinos, the Americans taught the Filipinos their language. They were taught English. Now this was part of a bigger strategy. Carlos said, "Because we were supposed to be made to the image of the United States. We were supposed to be the 50th state."

Carlos also said, "Thanks to the United States! We now have a national hero!" Now this is insightful. Jose Rizal was an artist, a doctor, a poet, a scientist, a writer and etc. In short, he was westernized. For an ordinary Filipino during that time, his image was boring. Remember that the Filipinos were clamoring for a revolution, for a real change. Why would the Filipinos choose him as the national hero?

But we didn't! It was the United States. But the question is why? Why the diplomatic, the educated and the peace-loving Jose Rizal? Why not the revolutionary Andres Bonifacio? Was this part of a bigger picture again? Was the United States "softening" our warring tendencies during that time?

This got me thinking. 

We offered a short prayer for the souls of the more than a hundred thousand Filipinos who were killed in Manila during the World War II. Across us actually stood a white cross which was dedicated to the many Filipinos who were buried there, nameless.

Carlos enlarged this picture of an American bomb landing somewhere in Manila. Apparently, it wasn't just the Japs doing all the killings of the Filipinos during the Battle of Manila. This American bomb, along with the other armaments which devastated the former "Pearl of the Orient", has its own share of murder.

Carlos was mimicking Gen. Douglas McArthur complete with a hat, a pipe and the infamous photo which was even made a life-sized replica in Leyte. The photo showed Gen. Douglas McArthur along with his troops dramatically stepping unto the Philippine shores to fulfill the promise he made more than two years before the photo was taken. "I shall return."

Apparently, this photo had to be taken thrice. It's part of the drama.  

We walked upon the walls of Intramuros. I wonder how the Walled City looked like before the Battle of Manila. The Philippines was the "Pearl of the Orient". It must be THAT beautiful and prosperous during that time. I yearned for Manila of the past which I haven't even seen.

This was the prison cell where Jose Rizal was jailed before the day of his execution.

On the other side of the river is Binondo, home of the Filipino-Chinese in Manila. During the Spanish Era, Binondo was called Parian. As said, the Parian is one canon ball away from Intramuros. It was a place where non-Christian Chinese settled. The Spanish had to keep them in one place due to the alarming growth of their population during the 16th century. They were allowed residency in Manila as long as they convert to being Christians. Those who refused conversion had to settle at Parian.

Carlos stood at the tranvia with an enlarged image of the San Agustin Church. During the World War II, this was the only structure in Intramuros that was spared. All the rest had to be flattened. It was said that someone placed a red cross on top of the church- symbolizing that the structure had to be spared. It'll be a great war crime to destroy it.

San Agustin Church is now regarded as the oldest church in the Philippines.

To cap off the whole walking tour, we were treated with halo-halo! The Philippines was compared by Carlos to this all-time favorite Filipino dessert. Like a melting pot of many culture and ethnicity, the Philippines can be compared to the halo-halo which is composed of many ingredients and flavorings. Yum!

That night, the beautiful music of the Mabuhay Singers filled the air in the heart of Manila again. They sang a lot of Kundiman songs that the younger ones like me may not be familiar with, but truly enjoyed listening to. It was so much fun to see them perform!

After a short while, Carlos showed us how to light the flying paper lamps or the spirit balloons to be released in a short while. This is one of the highlights we all awaited for.

We held our spirit balloons in front of Fort Santiago.

And then one by one, the spirit balloons all rose to the air and into the night sky!

Like stars at night, they shone. It was truly an amazing experience!

While the spirit balloons all rose above the ground, a beautiful rendition of the patriotic song, "Ang Bayan Ko" was given by the awesome Mabuhay Singers. They were the real stars that night!

My spirit balloon took a couple of minutes more before it took off. And when it finally did, the feeling was inexplicable. It was actually the last lamp to rise. I think I might join Manila Transitio 1945 again next year.

Special thanks to Carlos and his team for organizing this wonderful event.

God bless Manila! Long live the Philippines!

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4th Manila Transitio 1945

[Source:  http://carlosceldran.tumblr.com  ]

MANILA TRANSITIO 1945
Date: February 26, 2012, Sunday
Time: Tour @ 4:00PM
Meet-up Venue: Fort Santiago Ticket Booth

In February of 1945, the City of Manila was completely destroyed in a battle between the United States Armed Forces and the Japanese Imperial Army. An estimated 120,000 people were lost and our beloved City of Manila was never the same again.

This February 25th, to mark the 67th Anniversary of the Battle of Manila, Walk This Way Tours and Carlos Celdran will present the 4th Manila Transitio 1945. This art event hopes to become an annual commemoration/memorial where we as Manileños may reflect upon the passing of this event in our history.

The evening will start with a sunset tour of Intramuros at 4:00pm.

Art installations and musical performances will follow at the main field of Fort Santiago at 7:30pm. Stay posted for the listing of participants.

The evening will be highlighted by the release of spirit balloons.

Reasonably priced food and refreshment will be available.

Picnic baskets and bringing of your own refreshments allowed. Bring enough to share with others if you wish.

Cost: PAY WHAT YOU WANT.

*Php100.00 or more is RECOMMENDED.

This post was reblogged from http://bit.ly/wC5v2O.

IBC 2012: Best Travel Write-up Mechanics

BEST TRAVEL WRITE-UP CHALLENGE
Judge: Mr. Ivan Henares of Ivan About Town
Prize: An exclusive tour around Intramuros and Rizal Park with Castillan Carriage and Tours plus the book Intramuros of Memory authored by Dr. Jaime C. Laya and Esperanza B. Gatbonton
Deadline: February 10, 2012 @ 11pm

MECHANICS:

• WORDS. Using 1,000 words or less, create a blog post about your Intramuros Wall-king experience.
• PHOTOS & VIDEOS. As much as possible, do not place too much elements and big watermarks on your photos. You may also insert videos.
• STARBUCKS. Include a little bit about your Starbucks Intramuros experience. 
• CODE. At the bottom of the post, place the mandatory element. See it below.
• COMMENT BOX. When you're done, place the link to your post at the comment box below.
• TWEET. Tweet your post! Use this format: I blogged about my Intramuros Wall-king experience for #IBC2012 by @sleekinthecity [Insert short URL here via bitly.]
• SHARE. Share your post to your other social networks too such as your Facebook wall, groups, pages, Google Plus and etc. 

<---- Travel Write-up mandatory element below. Don't forget the links. ---->

This is a Travel Write-up entry to the Intramuros Bloggers Challenge 2012 organized by IntramurosManila.Asia. 

IBC 2012 is fully supported by the Intramuros Administration, Barbara's Restaurant, Celdran Tours, Mabuhay Guides, Pilgrimage Pilipinas, Castillan Tours, Federation of Philippine Photographers Foundation, Inc., DigiEntrepreneur, DigitalFilipino, Third Team Media, Payless Pancit Shanghai, Ruthilicious, Ruthilicious Fanpage and GadgetGambit.com.

<---- Travel Write-up mandatory element above. Don't forget the links. ---->

This post was updated last February 6, 2012.

Barbara's Restaurant: An Extraordinary Filipino Dining Experience within the Walled City

It’s fast becoming a tradition. This year, just like last year, the night before my birthday, I chose to dine again in a Filipino restaurant. And this time, I had it in a great restaurant inside the Walled City.

Have you heard about Barbara’s?

Barbara's is located at the Plaza San Luis Complex in Intramuros. They are open from Mondays thru Saturdays. Dinner starts at 6:30pm.

Barbara’s restaurant is located inside the elegant Plaza San Luis Complex, in front of San Agustin Chruch. This plaza is my favorite spot inside Intramuros. Inside you will find the beautiful Casa Manila, White Knight Hotel Intramuros and La Monja Loca Store- all of which are pretty much about the old Philippines. During my first time inside it, I thought I was somewhere in Spain! It was beautiful! It was the Philippines during the era of the Spanish conquistadores.

Plaza San Luis Complex is one of the most interesting spots within the Walled City. It houses Casa Manila, White Knight Hotel Intramuros, La Monja Loca Store and Barbara's Restaurant.

And then we entered Barbara’s.

I remembered during high school, my Filipino teacher would call my late-coming classmates “Gobernador Generales”. In English, the Governor Generals. The Spanish rulers of Las Islas de las Filipinas! It was said that the Governor General will always come in late for any gatherings. Everyone will have to wait for them before anything starts. They were kings!

This is what I exactly felt when I entered Barbara’s. I came in late for the cultural presentation. (Office time is till' 7pm so I really have no choice.) And when we came, they started dancing. I was the Governor General that night!

Imagine entering a restaurant serving authentic Filipino dishes and filled with loud Filipino music while dancers entertain the guests with traditional Filipino dances. Watch their awesome performance of Tinikling here!

When we were assisted by a waitress in Filipiniana to our seats (looked like the owner of the house during the old times), the more that I felt like a Governor General. But I did not remain in my seat. I stood up and stayed near the center where all the dancing and singing are happening. It was an amazing experience! It’s been a year that I’m blogging about food and travel (I have an old blog here). But this is the first time that I heard of a Filipino restaurant inside the Walled City where cultural presentations are being held every night (except Sundays)! I found the best Filipino restaurant of all time!

The performers of Kultura Filipina at Barbara's Restaurant. Show starts at 7:15pm everyday- except Sundays.

I thought I was already a "full" Filipino. Through blogging and through my travels, I have eaten a lot Filipino dishes already. I've witnessed a couple Filipino cultural presentations too. I have even sang at least one Kundiman song while wearing Barong Tagalog. But my moment at Barabara’s showed me the things that I don't know yet about my own culture. It has taken me to a new and remarkable experience- dining as a Filipino in a big Spanish-Filipino house within the historic Walled City while watching Filipino cultural performances.

Barbara's serve authentic Filipino dishes. Dinner buffet is at Php495+.

Salads and desserts at Barbara's.

A paragraph in their brochure said it right, “Step into a place reminiscent of old world elegance. Located along the historic General Luna street in Intramuros, the restaurant evokes the charm and beauty of a bygone era. Go up the intricately carved staircase and be greeted by silver-gilded mirrors. With high ceilings and crystal chandeliers, the setting is a world apart from your modern day shopping mall restaurant.”

The old Filipino interior of Barbara's Restaurant.

Experience more of Kultura Filipina at Barbara's Restaurant through our YouTube videos! Please visit our channel at http://www.youtube.com/user/intramurosmanila.

The 7 Churches of Intramuros: Then and Now

Maybe a revival of piety (using the term in its Latin sense) will in the future inspire the return to Intramuros of all its former churches, chapels, convents and beaterios. Only then will Intramuros be really "restored". -Nick Joaquin

The Old Manila that was Intramuros was not only the economic and military center of the Spanish Empire in the far east. It was also the bastion of its strong Christian Faith. There used to stand, within the walls of Intramuros, seven houses of God, all built with architectural magnificence. 

I've been always dreaming that one day, all the other 5 churches of Intramuros would rise again from the rubble. If you will visit the Walled City right now, you'll notice that only 2 of the original 7 churches managed to endure the test of time. Ask me what happened to the other 5 and I will answer you with a deep regretful sigh. What happened after the war was that our government focused on building new establishments over the rubble of the past glorious city, a mistake that put Manila's former beauty into a chaotic bustling city. Forever I will be unhappy that our post-war government chose development rather than restoration.

To repeat, Intramuros was the conjunto, of all its traditional temples; without its other colleagues, even the Cathedral and San Agustin are merely crown jewels without a crown. -Nick Joaquin

What remained from the Seven Churches of Intramuros are the San Agustin Church (the only building left standing after the Liberation of Manila in 1945; listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the Manila Cathedral (rebuilt from 1953-1958). The other five no longer exist within the walls of Intramuros, the San Ignacio Church was left in ruins until now and the other 4 have new establishments built on their site.



1. Manila Cathedral

The ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Manila. Catastrophic events such as fire, earthquake and war have caused this structure to be reconstructed eight times on the same site (the last was completed in 1958 after its total destruction by the Liberation of Manila in 1945). The cross on its central dome was the zero kilometer reference point for all locations in the Philippines during the Spanish era (the reference point is now located at the Independence flagpole in Rizal Park). On its crypt lies the remains of former Archbishops of Manila including Cardinal Santos and Cardinal Sin.

Pre-war photo of the Manila Cathedral.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

The Manila Cathedral at present.

2. San Agustin Church

Built by the Augustinians from 1587 and completed in 1604, it is considered to be the oldest stone church in the Philippines. Nothing remained standing inside the walled city except the Church of San Agustin after the Liberation of Manila in 1945. The church was spared from the bombings because it's bell tower was marked with a Red Cross (in times of war, attacking any building/establishment/vehicle that carries an emblem of Red Cross is a great war crime). In 1994, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Pre-war photo of San Agustin Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

San Agustin Church at present.

3. San Ignacio Church

The church (neo-classical in style with two towers) was built by the Jesuits in 1889. The famous Filipino sculptor Isabelo Tampingco and his students worked on the lavish woodwork on its interior. However, it was greatly destroyed during the war and was left in ruins to date. At one time it became the E.J. Neil warehouse. Currently, there is an archaeological excavation at the site of its ruins, it is said that San Ignacio Church will be the future site of Museo de Intramuros that will house the religious collection of Intramuros Administration.

Pre-war photo of San Ignacio Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

At the back of the ruins of San Ignacio Church.

Archaeological excavation site inside the walls of the ruins of San Ignacio Church.

4. Lourdes Church

House of the Franciscan Capuchin friars built in 1891. It houses the allegedly miraculous statue of the Our Lady of Lourdes, carved by Manuel Flores in 1892. The war also destroyed the church in 1945, forcing the Capuchins to move to its current location in Retiro, Quezon City. This site is now occupied by El Amanecer compound where the Ilustrado Restaurant and Silahis antique shop is located.

Pre-war photo of Lourdes Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

The old site of the Lourdes Church. Now site of Silahis Souvenir Shop.

5. Recoletos Church

The church that was famous for its four-story bell tower and its magnificent interior. Was built several times from 1619 (the last was built in 1782). It was in this church that Father Diego Cera, the man behind the construction of the Las Pinas Bamboo Organ, started making organs made of bamboos. The Recollect friars moved to San Sebastian Church in Quiapo after the war severely destroyed their church in Intramuros. Manilla Bulletin now occupies the site. 

Pre-war photo of Recoletos Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

Old site of Recoletos Church. Now site of the Manila Bulletin Building.

6. San Francisco Church

The church of the Franciscan Order (second to arrive in the country) first built in 1578. It was burned down in 1583 so a new stone church was built in 1602. The earthquake of 1645 destroyed again the church. The third church was built in 1738. It then had a retablo-like facade decorated with collumns, statues and niches. It remained in ruins after its destruction during the war. Mapua Institute of Technology rose from its rubble.

Pre-war photo of San Francisco Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

Old site of San Francisco Church. now site of Mapua Institute of Technology.

7. Santo Domingo Church
 
The Dominicans built five churches on the same site, the last (built in 1868) was designed by Felix Roxas Sr. in Neo-Gothic style. The church was famous for its ivory image of Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary (Nuestra Senora del Santisimo Rosario) also known as the Virgin of La Naval. It is believed that the Virgin Mary brought victory to Spanish fleet over the invading Dutch, hence the feast of La Naval is celebrated annually every 7th of October. When the Japanese burned down the church in 1941, the Dominicans moved to its current site in Quezon City. The site is now occupied by the Bank of the Philippines Islands.

Pre-war photo of Sto. Domingo Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

Old site of Sto. Domingo Church. Now site of BPI building.

About the Contributor

Ivan Briñas Cultura, 19, a biology student with an adventurer's instinct and a little introverted personality. He is a history lover and a wannabe photographer. He's a pure Filipino from Manila who dreams to have M.D. after his name. Though his ultimate goal in life is to have his name in Philippines' history. Solo traveling, photography, locating historic markers and watching musicals are his favorite pastime.

Visit his blog here.

Lights and Sounds Museum: A Walking Tour To Philippine History

Lapu-Lapu is regarded as the first Filipino hero.

When I first heard of the Lights and Sounds Museum, I thought I was just going to watch an ordinary show about the making of Intramuros. But when I entered a big room, standing, and with lights all turned off, I felt I was up for something more exciting that day. The Lights and Sounds Museum wasn't just a museum, it was an experience center!

A diorama of one of the battles fought between the Filipinos and the Spaniards.

The museum was divided into different rooms. Each one of them is depicting some of the highlights of the Philippine history. It has dioramas- moving replicas of people and objects placed in scenes that tell the remarkable stories of the Philippines' past.

Statues of the different Filipino heroes were placed inside the Lights and Sounds Museum.

Each scene is to be "experienced" one by one. It is dramatically narrated by a voice over with some background music. The lights are also in place to direct the attention of the audience to the main characters. A tour facilitator is also present to lead the audience from one room to another.

We were brought to Europe inside the Lights and Sounds Museum and experienced the life of Jose Rizal and his fellow Filipinos when they were there.

The life of Jose Rizal was one of the highlights in the Lights and Sound Museum. It was an instant trip to Europe when we were brought by the tour facilitator to Jose Rizal's life in Spain and Germany.

The publishing of La Solidaridad.

We were able to "experience" the national hero's life through the images being depicted in the dioramas.  The dioramas were not anymore at their best conditions today but I still enjoyed the entire show, nonetheless.

The different characters from Noli Me Tangere.

There was even a room showcasing the characters of Noli Me Tangere and El Filibusterismo. It was nice to go back once again to the novels written by Jose Rizal. This time, with life-size dioramas and dramatic narrations.

The friars warned the Filipinos about reading Rizal's novels.

The Lights and Sounds Museum was a project of the former Tourism Secretary, Richard Gordon. The aim of the museum is to retell the history of the Philippines to local and foreign visitors in an interactive and fun setting.

The building of Intramuros.

Another highlight of the show is the story of how Intramuros, the Walled City, was built. This topic wasn't discussed that much during my classes in history in high school and college.

The Filipinos weren't allowed to enter inside Intramuros- except the slaves.

Because of the Lights and Sounds Museum, I have learned that ordinary Filipinos- except the special guests and the slaves- weren't allowed to enter the walls of Intramuros back then. It was exclusive to the Spaniards- the government officials, the friars and their guests. It was also said that the Spaniards made it a very happy place. Spaniards held feasts inside it every now and then,  leaving the Filipinos outside hungry and oppressed.

A diorama of Jose Rizal when he was imprisoned in Fort Santiago.

Lights and Sounds Museum is located at Sta. Lucia cor. Victoria Sts. The tour requires a minimum fee of PhP 1,000 per tour. The first show starts at 10:00 AM and the last show at 6:00 PM. For reservations or inquiries, you may contact (02) 524 2827.

Blogger's Note: These pictures were taken at the museum with permission the Intramuros Administration.