The 7 Churches of Intramuros: Then and Now

Maybe a revival of piety (using the term in its Latin sense) will in the future inspire the return to Intramuros of all its former churches, chapels, convents and beaterios. Only then will Intramuros be really "restored". -Nick Joaquin

The Old Manila that was Intramuros was not only the economic and military center of the Spanish Empire in the far east. It was also the bastion of its strong Christian Faith. There used to stand, within the walls of Intramuros, seven houses of God, all built with architectural magnificence. 

I've been always dreaming that one day, all the other 5 churches of Intramuros would rise again from the rubble. If you will visit the Walled City right now, you'll notice that only 2 of the original 7 churches managed to endure the test of time. Ask me what happened to the other 5 and I will answer you with a deep regretful sigh. What happened after the war was that our government focused on building new establishments over the rubble of the past glorious city, a mistake that put Manila's former beauty into a chaotic bustling city. Forever I will be unhappy that our post-war government chose development rather than restoration.

To repeat, Intramuros was the conjunto, of all its traditional temples; without its other colleagues, even the Cathedral and San Agustin are merely crown jewels without a crown. -Nick Joaquin

What remained from the Seven Churches of Intramuros are the San Agustin Church (the only building left standing after the Liberation of Manila in 1945; listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and the Manila Cathedral (rebuilt from 1953-1958). The other five no longer exist within the walls of Intramuros, the San Ignacio Church was left in ruins until now and the other 4 have new establishments built on their site.



1. Manila Cathedral

The ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Manila. Catastrophic events such as fire, earthquake and war have caused this structure to be reconstructed eight times on the same site (the last was completed in 1958 after its total destruction by the Liberation of Manila in 1945). The cross on its central dome was the zero kilometer reference point for all locations in the Philippines during the Spanish era (the reference point is now located at the Independence flagpole in Rizal Park). On its crypt lies the remains of former Archbishops of Manila including Cardinal Santos and Cardinal Sin.

Pre-war photo of the Manila Cathedral.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

The Manila Cathedral at present.

2. San Agustin Church

Built by the Augustinians from 1587 and completed in 1604, it is considered to be the oldest stone church in the Philippines. Nothing remained standing inside the walled city except the Church of San Agustin after the Liberation of Manila in 1945. The church was spared from the bombings because it's bell tower was marked with a Red Cross (in times of war, attacking any building/establishment/vehicle that carries an emblem of Red Cross is a great war crime). In 1994, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Pre-war photo of San Agustin Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

San Agustin Church at present.

3. San Ignacio Church

The church (neo-classical in style with two towers) was built by the Jesuits in 1889. The famous Filipino sculptor Isabelo Tampingco and his students worked on the lavish woodwork on its interior. However, it was greatly destroyed during the war and was left in ruins to date. At one time it became the E.J. Neil warehouse. Currently, there is an archaeological excavation at the site of its ruins, it is said that San Ignacio Church will be the future site of Museo de Intramuros that will house the religious collection of Intramuros Administration.

Pre-war photo of San Ignacio Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

At the back of the ruins of San Ignacio Church.

Archaeological excavation site inside the walls of the ruins of San Ignacio Church.

4. Lourdes Church

House of the Franciscan Capuchin friars built in 1891. It houses the allegedly miraculous statue of the Our Lady of Lourdes, carved by Manuel Flores in 1892. The war also destroyed the church in 1945, forcing the Capuchins to move to its current location in Retiro, Quezon City. This site is now occupied by El Amanecer compound where the Ilustrado Restaurant and Silahis antique shop is located.

Pre-war photo of Lourdes Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

The old site of the Lourdes Church. Now site of Silahis Souvenir Shop.

5. Recoletos Church

The church that was famous for its four-story bell tower and its magnificent interior. Was built several times from 1619 (the last was built in 1782). It was in this church that Father Diego Cera, the man behind the construction of the Las Pinas Bamboo Organ, started making organs made of bamboos. The Recollect friars moved to San Sebastian Church in Quiapo after the war severely destroyed their church in Intramuros. Manilla Bulletin now occupies the site. 

Pre-war photo of Recoletos Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

Old site of Recoletos Church. Now site of the Manila Bulletin Building.

6. San Francisco Church

The church of the Franciscan Order (second to arrive in the country) first built in 1578. It was burned down in 1583 so a new stone church was built in 1602. The earthquake of 1645 destroyed again the church. The third church was built in 1738. It then had a retablo-like facade decorated with collumns, statues and niches. It remained in ruins after its destruction during the war. Mapua Institute of Technology rose from its rubble.

Pre-war photo of San Francisco Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

Old site of San Francisco Church. now site of Mapua Institute of Technology.

7. Santo Domingo Church
 
The Dominicans built five churches on the same site, the last (built in 1868) was designed by Felix Roxas Sr. in Neo-Gothic style. The church was famous for its ivory image of Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary (Nuestra Senora del Santisimo Rosario) also known as the Virgin of La Naval. It is believed that the Virgin Mary brought victory to Spanish fleet over the invading Dutch, hence the feast of La Naval is celebrated annually every 7th of October. When the Japanese burned down the church in 1941, the Dominicans moved to its current site in Quezon City. The site is now occupied by the Bank of the Philippines Islands.

Pre-war photo of Sto. Domingo Church.
[Photo Credits: http://www.skyscrapercity.com]

Old site of Sto. Domingo Church. Now site of BPI building.

About the Contributor

Ivan Briñas Cultura, 19, a biology student with an adventurer's instinct and a little introverted personality. He is a history lover and a wannabe photographer. He's a pure Filipino from Manila who dreams to have M.D. after his name. Though his ultimate goal in life is to have his name in Philippines' history. Solo traveling, photography, locating historic markers and watching musicals are his favorite pastime.

Visit his blog here.

Simbang Gabi: The Intramuros Experience

The Christmas spirit in the Walled City is very much alive.

One day, I just had a sudden inspiration to attend the Simbang Gabi in Intramuros.

I don't remember myself being religious about attending the Dawn Masses before as I am a self-confessed nocturnal being and I loathe waking up early. But, I thought it might be a good experience for me to attend it at least once. This time, at no less than the Manila Cathedral.

So after a get-together with some college friends in Tomas Morato in Q.C., I headed straight to the Walled City. From the windows of my cab, I witnessed how the scenery changed- from seeing the bright lights of the restaurants, bars and cars in the city to the dimly-lit and old-looking Spanish-Filipino houses, streets and other establishments in Intramuros.

As my cab went further inside the Walled City, I couldn't help but notice the increasing amount of brightness emanating from ahead. As we draw nearer San Agustin Church, I saw them- the people who are going to attend the mass, the sacristans who are glowing in the whiteness of their garments and some vendors selling bibingka and puto bumbong. Something warm welled up from my insides.

It's Christmas time.

And when we reached the cathedral, here is what I saw.

The Manila Cathedral looked magnificent that day.

Manila Cathedral was a house of gold in the middle of the evening sky. It was glowing! I saw a lot of people going straight inside the church. It was 4 o'clock in the morning. The mass shall start any moment soon. As for me, I took my time to admire the beautiful facade of the cathedral and took some shots.

The beautiful interiors of the Manila Cathedral.

As I entered the cathedral, an equally beautiful and magnificent interior welcomed me. It was huge and grand! I couldn't help myself taking a few shots before I pick my seat in one of the first few pews in front. It was already filled with people when I came in. The mass is, indeed, going to start any moment soon.

Simbang Gabi or the Dawn Mass is a 9-day devotional mass that starts from December 16 to 24. In Spanish, it is called Misa de Gallo or the Rooster's Mass due to its nature of being celebrated before the dawn.

It started during the era of the Spanish colonizers as a practical compromise for the farmers who still wish to attend the novena masses in the evenings after a whole day of labor in the fields. Since they normally start their day in the fields before the sun rises, the priests decided to hold the dawn masses for them.

After the service, the people and the clergy would share the former's offerings to the church before they head to the fields. They offer sacks of rice, fruits and vegetables that the farmers harvest themselves. This is where all our all-time favorite Christmas snacks such as bibingka and puto bumbong originated from.

Just like this one.

After the mass, people lined up to taste their all-time favorite Bibingka.

My favorite taho drink was also present that day. I can feel the distinct "Filipino Christmas spirit" just with the way these kids huddled at the taho vendor. I wish the taho vendors would never get tired selling their well-loved merchandise in the mornings- forever. It is my morning cup and morning music, all at the same time.

I would be demise if the next generation of Filipinos will not be able to experience this beautiful part of every Filipino's childhood.

My all-time favorite drink, Taho, was present that day too.

Merry Christmas, folks!

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simbang_Gabi

Manila Cathedral: A Timeline of Strength

The beautiful facade of the Manila Cathedral.

Timeline of Events:

• 1571. The first church was built out of nipa and bamboo.
• 1583. The cathedral was destroyed by fire.
• 1591. The second cathedral was built of stone and mortar.

In the facade is a Latin statement which may be translated as "Thy heart we entrust to you, immaculate and consecrated." 

• 1599. The cathedral was destroyed by earthquake.
• 1600. The cathedral was partially destroyed by earthquake.
• 1614. The third cathedral was built.

A picture in the interiors of the Manila Cathdral.

• 1621. The cathedral was destroyed by an earthquake.
• 1645. The cathedral was destroyed by an earthquake.
• 1654 - 1681. The fourth cathedral was magnificently built by Archbishop Miguel Poblete.

The facade up close.

• 1751. The cathedral was demolished.
• 1760. The fifth cathedral was inaugurated. 
• 1850. The cathedral was renovated.

The angel at the Narthex that holds the holy water.

• 1852. The cathedral was destroyed by an earthquake.
• 1854 - 1858. The sixth cathedral was constructed.
• June 3, 1863. The cathedral was destroyed by an earthquake.

The altar of the Manila Cathedral with an image of the Immaculate Conception.

• 1879. The seventh cathedral was inaugurated in 1879. 
• 1880. The cathedral was severely damaged by an earthquake when the belltower collapsed.
• 1945. The cathedral was totally destroyed during the Battle of Manila.

One of the authorized replicas of  Pieta sculpted by Michelangelo Buonarroti.

• 1953 - 1958. The present  and the eighth cathedral was built. 
• 1981. The cathedral was elevated to the rank of Minor Basilica by Pope John Paul II  and officially named Basilica of the Immaculate Conception.

Facing the cathedral, in Plaza Roma, is the statue of King Charles IV of Spain. This was built in gratitude for the king for his support of the Balmis Expedition during the 1800s. His royal doctor, Dr. Francisco Javier de Balmis, led the mission of giving out smallpox vaccines to the Filipinos. The king's daughter, Maria Luisa, said to have suffered the same illness.

To know more about the Manila Cathedral, please visit their website at http://www.manilacathedral.org/.


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Sources: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manila_Cathedral,           http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balmis_Expedition